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Wagon Wheel Stirling Engine - Part 5

Nigel Taylor

I turned up a lump of lead to fit in the main base. I glued this in with 5 minute epoxy.

The lead weighed about 0.5kg and has the benfit of keeping the engine very stable. When you spin the flywheel the engine stays put with no vibration.

Even with the lead weight the engine was lopsided.

My way around this was to add 4 small turned legs that support the extremities of the engine.

I like the fact that the engine has a very victorian look to it.


The legs were made by first glueing lots of pieces of different coloured wood together.

This was clamped and left to dry for 24 hours before turning.


The power cylinder was machined from cast iron. The bore is 20mm and the stroke will be 30mm. The cylinder is 45mm long.

I drilled the cast iron, then bored the cylinder out to 19.7mm before honing the cylinder first with wet and dry paper and oil.

I then used a mandrel that has a scouring pad type of material and with lots of oil pushed this through the cylinder several times.

The finished result is very much like a mirror.


The cast iron cylinder is fixed in an aluminium cylinder that has some cooling fins.

The aluminium also forms the cylinder head.


The other end of the cylinder head showing the 4 8BA bolt fixings.


Back to Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4 to read how it started or on to Part 6.

If you have made a similar engine and would like to share your experience we would love to hear from you - ed.