This site will look much better in a browser that supports web standards, but it is accessible to any browser or Internet device.


Clubs, glossaries, museums, shops and much more......

glue-it.com

...all of your model making needs from one site.







Wood and Metal Beam Engine - Part 4

Nigel Taylor

OK, now I know why you should machine the flywheel when you know the dimensions....

This is all a bit odd, but my idea is to machine a bush to fit in the centre of the flywheel that is bolted to the wheel and then to use a small grub screw to lock the bush onto the crank.

The next question was what to use for the bush and after careful consideration - copper.


The first rough machining of the copper bush looked horrible and so it was a case of going back and looking at the required tool angles for copper.

A few notes on Lathe Tools are available on our glossary.


Sorted out the lathe tools and now machined to the correct dimensions.


This shows the bush placed in the flywheel.

Now need to drill and bolt this bush so that it is fixed to the flywheel.


The crank was machined from two pieces. The axle and the crankweb and pin.

The axle is pushed into the crank at this point just to show the final part.


The crank web needs to be milled to finish the part.

This view from the rear shows the eccentric machined as part of the web.

Note the groove in the eccentric, this is so that I can use a small bolt to locate the bearing on eccentric so that it will not slide off sideways - this eccentric outer bearing will then drive the valve.

I machined the crank web with random angle and size facets.

The facets give a nice effect as the crank rotates and they reflect the light.


There is enough space around the eccentric for the outer ring and connecting rod.


Back to Part 1, Part 2, Part 3 on to Part 5

If you have made a similar engine and would like to share your experience we would love to hear from you - ed.