Categories: Gallery

Warlord Titan

We decided we ought to have a go at building a Warlord Titan for Warhammer 40k. The only questions were – “what size?” – “how?” – “where do we start?”

The final warlord after spraying it black is shown here with a Warhammer figue at his feet to give you a size comparison.

When you make something like this the most important thing is to get the base figure robust and able to stand / balance. The detail can get added in layers, even after the base coat of paint you can add more features / textures, you can even remove items with a saw or by filing away.

This is not my normal model, but I must say it is proper escapism to make.

So the first thing is a robust base figure.

I started with the legs and the idea that they would initially be articulated during the build and then fixed – this would give him the right look and at the same time give some scope to get the right stance at the end.

This is the “upper thigh bone” and is 18cm between centres.

It is made from 5 layers of MDF with each layer 3mm thick and 30mm wide.

The holes were drilled after the plys had set.

The articulated parts, this does mean extra work but does make it look more realistic and gives us the opportunity to pose the model.

Once the pose is correct we will then glue the joints.

A close up of the plys that have been drilled to accept an 8mm aluminium tube.

A foot again made from 3mm thick mdf plys.

The layers were jointed in the centre so that the plys fit closely together at 90°.

The upper joint was designed to articulate so that we could pose the model.

The left stands with the aluminium tubes allowing the joints to rotate. As you can see the leg is fully articluated and the proportions look about right. So a pair of these and we have the start of our Titan.

The articulation works very well and the aluminium tube for the joint means we don’t have too much weight in the joints.

It is quite important not to make the model too heavy as this will bring problems later with overall strength and balance.

The legs jointed with spacers on the hips.

The feet are nicely spaced and clear each other when you walk the model.

From all angles the look is rather pleasing.

We decided that the model needed to look mechanical and the leg actuators would be hydraulic rams.

These were simulated with MDF and brass tubes.

At this point the feet had gained the armour plates – these were just made to fit….a case of offering up parts and cutting a rough example then making 8 off.

We plumbed in the lower ram with copper wire (this was stripped out from some 2.5mm2 flat twin and earth). An actuator being held whilst the glue dried with masking tape and a strong clip. The copper wires were wound around the legs to make the legs look more mechanical and to bulk them out a bit.

The legs were drilled and the wire threaded through and around the legs.

The legs sprayed with black undercoat. You can see that we are still missing the upper armour, but we have added lots of cables to make the legs look busier and more interesting.

The legs have quite a wide stance to make the model stable – we don’t really want it falling over on a gaming board and wiping out a lot of models.

The bundles of wires – from a heavy duty copper cable.

These wires run through the ankle and knee joints as these then give clear and well defined routing points that have some logic.

You can also see the grooves that were cut into the side plates of the armour.

This image now shows the upper leg armour in place.

The upper armour plates were fixed to the legs using 6mm mdf spacers.

The next stage is the upper body. We started with a simple box that formed the torso and area behind the head.

Onto this box we glued a roughly hexagonal piece of armour with grooves cut into it.

A 6mm thick piece of mdf forms the shoulders and under this we glued much thicker pieces of mdf to which the upper arms are pivoted.

There is a lot of cutting and fitting of pieces as we went – not too much of a plan as we really measured, sketched, bandsawed the pieces out of 3mm thick mdf and glued in place using PVA wood glue.

At this point the arms were free to move as this made it easier to work with and get the pose correct before fixing. The shoulder armour plating is in place. In the background you can make out the upper plate with the area jutting out above the head.

The upper guns were added. For these we used a piece of 1 inch dowel cut down the length to form two semi-circular pieces.

The gun barrels were made from 8mm diameter aluminium tubing.

The lower arms have now been added and are jointed to allow some movement – we will fix these once we know what the guns look like and the angle they should be held at.

The exhaust stack was a piece of 8mm aluminium tube with some aluminium mexh over the top as a protective layer.

The model is now roughly 0.65m tall and weighs around 3kg.


Nigel :Have been making models since I was around 7 years old and using a lathe from the age of 11, a self taught engineer with a passion for making model engines.