Miniature Traction Engine

My son bought me this book for my birthday as I’ve seen a number of Cherry Hill’s models and they are inspirational.

This book has made me think about my approach, my research and as I’ve got older how I can more calmly make parts and remake parts.

The book is quite difficult to find now, but there are copies listed on Amazon:

Cherry’s Model Engines

The front axle was quite simple to design and make. A tapered 3/16″ square mild steel with machined ends to accept the wheels directly.

This axle then rocks and rotates on the axle pivot that is located under the smokebox.

The rear axle bearings are phosphor bronze. These fit into an 8mm hole in the tender and each is bolted into place with 3 off 12BA bolts.

A brass tube sits over the bearing as it protrudes through the brass sideplate and bridges the space inside the tender. Thus protecting the rotating shaft.

The boiler design is to heat partly from underneath and with through tubes from the firebox. This means I can make a simple copper boiler and fix this into a steel firebox. Firstly I need to learn how to make the boiler endplates.

What is the right angle for the boiler to sit relative to the road surface?

I calculated the efficiency of the engine and boiler so I could work out the water and fuel consumption.

The materials used in boiler construction is important, brass fittings need to be avoided.

Conrod

The conrod has come together from 3 parts. This has meant that I have had to split the crankshaft. Hopefully this is the right approach.

This is based on the Stuart 10V, a great steam engine and a great runner. I machined the crosshead guide from cast iron.

I then worried that it looked a tad heavy and so bolted it to the cylinder to put it into context.

The cylinder design has taken some thinking to come up with an idea that I think will work. The basic principle is to make a central saddle that gets soldered to the boiler.

The eccentric pushrods have been assembled from parts.

These then run on a double eccentric to give forward and reverse drive.

The firebox on this small model has been designed to be separate to the boiler. Manufactured from mild steel and silver soldered together.

The boiler is going to be clamped to the firebox.

The firebox door is a simple single hinge and latch design.

The flywheel is just 72mm in diameter. My first attempt to make the flywheel and it came out too heavy on the rim.

Some help from a model engineering colleague and I re-visited the flywheel making the rim lighter. Also, used a chamfer and curved outer surface to created visually a much lighter look.

I just had to compare this model that I’m making with the Mamod engine. OK, it’s a steam wagon, but still comparable in terms of the front end design.

The parts made and bought laying on top of the engine plans.

Could this be a set of plans for sale or a kit of parts?

The rear axle is fixed and made from a solid piece of phosphor bronze. The wheels then rotate on the axle and are driven independently from the layshaft.

The smokebox is gradually taking shape with some basic dimensions being sketched out and then I’ve machined the main ring out of mild steel.

The lower chimney is curved and some of the turning was done freehand, with this you need to keep tool overhangs to an absolute minimum. Plus take your time and use very fine cuts. I wear a pair of heavy duty gardening gloves when I’m turning like this to minimise damage to my hands.

For the lettering around the door I bought a Genmitsu 3018pro CNC engraver, but after a few upgrades I still reverted to a tried and tested etching technique using Ferric Chloride.

I then found a way to simply do brass etching. Silver soldering the hinge and ensuring it was all aligned was quite scary.

I then started again with the door lettering and etching.

Having re-made the smokebox door and added curvature. I then needed to make the hinges again, this time a solid jig ensured accurate hinge alignment.

The door lock works as per a full size engine with a T-headed bolt and two handles. One handle rotates the bolt to lock it into the smokebox, the other handle pulls the bolt up tight.

The tender and hornplates have been constructed together.

The beading was challenging, but also rewarding as the design moved on a step.

Made from a length of 1/4 inch square brass with a machined groove. This was then riveted to the tender.

The multiple towing points show that this engine really was for use on the road and maneuvering trailers in the yard. A real workhorse.

I’ve roughed the Burrell valve chest out of brass. The valve pushrod bearings were made as one part, silvered soldered into the valve chest. The centre part was then removed on the milling machine. This part is quite small as the Burrell is just 1/20th scale. The main valve chest is 22 x 20 x 7mm.

The miniature traction engine has not quite made it onto the wheels, but I do now have a Burrell on “Matchboxes”.

This have given me the ability to visualise it more clearly and think carefully about the next parts.