This shows the chuck being changed on a Warco WM240B, but the process is similar for most of the Warco lathes.
First of all make sure that the lathe is unplugged.
I then use the chuck key to hold the chuck and with a spanner loosen the nuts at the back. In this image I have the chuck key and a spanner in one hand, not that useful, but I have the camera in the other hand.
This should not be too hard as hopefully you have not over tightened it the previous time.
You will need to loosen the nuts and then slide the chuck forward as you will not be able to get the nuts off otherwise.
Be careful as the chuck is heavy and best not to drop it on the bed – if anything protect the bed with a piece of flat wood.
Before putting any chuck onto the lathe ensure it is clean.
Any swarf caught between the mating surfaces will damage the surface and cause misalignment. It’s also a good chance to clean the chuck thoroughly as lots of swarf will have worked it’s way into the scroll.
…again ensure that the spindle nose is clean before replacing the chuck. I always just clean the swarf out of the hole through the spindle as it is very easy when putting the next chuck onto the spindle to tap the two parts together and for some of the swarf to then end up trapped between the two.
Tightening the chuck up.
I go around and do each bolt an amount at a time and then go around again. They want to be tight, but don’t go mad.
That’s it, quite an easy process.
After some years of use I found the standard 3 jaw chuck that comes with the Warco lathes rather worn. The standard chuck is ok, but it is quite lacking the accuracy and quality of some of the other chucks.
I chose to replace it with a Soba 3 jaw self centering chuck. This has proved to be more accurate over the full 125mm of operation. The grip is more precise. Plus the scroll is a delight to operate.